Recipes from the Compleat  Kitchen & friends

“During the twentieth century so many Sicilians in New Orleans lived in the French Quarter, the Little Palermo, that they eventually spilled out into the neighboring faubourg (neighborhood) known as Tremé. My great-grandparents and my grandparents lived in Tremé, where there was a mixing of Sicilians and the African Americans who originally lived there. Associating with these new neighbors meant that Sicilians came into contact with calas, dessert-like fried rice fritters. Unlike sweet calas, arancini are savory, but they are still made of rice and represent another example of frugality, like calas. Both African Americans and Sicilians were making something delicious from the leftovers of one of Louisiana's top agricultural crops.” —Liz Williams

Ingredients: 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup raw rice, 1 cup shredded mozzarella, 2 tablespoons pine nuts, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 large eggs, beaten, 2 cups Seasoned Breadcrumbs (recipe page 101 or purchased), divided, vegetable oil for frying.

Directions: In a medium saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil and stir in the rice. Bring back to a boil, lower to a simmer, cover, and cook until rice has absorbed all the water and is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Mix cheese, pine nuts, and parsley together in a bowl. Set aside. Mix the cooled rice, beaten eggs, and all but ¼ cup of the breadcrumbs together in a large bowl. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, scoop out ¼ cup and roll into balls. With your thumb, make a deep indentation in the center of each ball. Place a teaspoon of the cheese mixture in the indentation. Bring the rice mixture over the cheese to remake a ball. Roll the balls in the remaining breadcrumbs. Refrigerate an hour. Heat 1 inch oil in a heavy skillet to 350°F. Fry the rice balls until golden and crispy all over. This should take about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm as a snack or a light meal.

The whiskey cocktail was often made with rye, sugar, water, and bitters. As time passed, it became a more common drink. It was sold, made with various spirits, in New York in the 1830s. As the nineteenth century progressed, the drink changed and its ingredients were varied. Indeed, it changed so much that the simple, original drink became known as the old-fashioned.

New Orleanians may not have been early rye enthusiasts, but the liquor did eventually catch on. In 1884 and 1885, many tourists traveled to the city for the World Cotton Exposition. Journalist and New Orleans observer Lafcadio Hearn published a cookbook for those visitors called La Cuisine Creole, which contained some of the special foods that have made New Orleans famous, such as gumbo and jambalaya. It also in cluded recipes for drinks then being enjoyed in New Orleans, suggesting that drinking cocktails was an essential aspect of the city's culture.

Here is the recipe for the whiskey, brandy, or gin cocktail from La Cuisine Creole:

Two dashes of Boker's, Angostura, or Peychaud bitters-either will make a fine cocktail. One lump of sugar, one-piece of lemon peel, one table spoon of water, one wineglassful of liquor, etc., with plenty of ice. Stir well and strain into a cocktail glass.

The old-fashioned, when made with rye, is not as sweet as the drink made with bourbon. That is also true about the Sazerac. Most Sazerac recipes today call for rye.

Despite the claim of the Pendennis Club in Louisville, Kentucky, to have invented the old-fashioned, it more likely originated from the frequent request of customers that a cocktail be made in the old-fashioned way, without new ingredients. The old-fashioned is a built cocktail. It is built in the glass, not shaken and then poured into the glass.

Although cuccidatta (Italian fig cookies) are often found on St. Joseph's Day altars, cookies such as these biscotti are also favorites, especially because of their anise flavor. This recipe comes from Sandra Scalise Juneau.

INGREDIENTS

• 7 cups flour

• 5 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa

• 2 Tablespoons cinnamon

• 2 teaspoons allspice

• 1 teaspoon nutmeg

• 2 cups sugar

• 4 eggs

• 1 cup white Crisco

• 1 cup golden raisins

• 1 cup Marsala wine or cream Sherry

• 1 cup chopped nuts (pecans or walnuts)

METHOD

1. Soak raisins in wine. Set aside.

2. Slightly beat eggs, gradually adding sugar. Blend Crisco into egg-sugar mixture. Set aside.

3. In a separate bowl, add dry ingredients to flour in order given. Stir to thoroughly blend. Add chopped nuts.

4. Fold egg-sugar- Crisco mixture into dry ingredients, gently stirring to fully incorporate.

5. Add wine to egg-sugar bowl to loosen remains. Add this residue to cookie dough and gently fold in raisins.

6. Pinch off a small piece of dough, then roll into a small ball. Place on an un-greased baking sheet. Pat balls to slightly flatten. Bake in a pre-heated 350 degree oven, until bottoms are slightly browned, about 20 minutes.

7. Remove from oven and turn cookies over on the hot baking sheet to continue cooking tops. When fully cooled, coat cookies with icing.

ICING INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups confectioners sugar

• 4 to 6 tablespoons milk or cream

• 4 drops anise oil

• Add a small amount of red food coloring for delicate pink colored cookies.

ICING METHOD

1. Gradually blend milk into sugar, one tablespoon at a time, mixing to a smooth paste. Add anise flavoring.

2. Icing should be slightly runny in texture. Pour icing over cookies in a large bowl, stirring gently to thoroughly coat each cookie, then placing on a pastry rack, allow cookies to thoroughly dry before packaging.

For a bit of a history lesson about this guilty pleasure from Tujague’s, one of NOLA’s oldest bars, catch up here.

• 1 oz. green crème de menthe

• 1 oz white crème de Cacao

• 2 oz. heavy cream

Shake well with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Jammy Creole Tomato Chicken

2 bone in skin on chicken breasts

2 bone in skin on chicken legs

1 tbsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. black pepper

4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 small to medium onion, diced

4 cloves of garlic

1 tsp. crushed red pepper

1/2 cup red wine

2 tbsp. tomato paste

1 tbsp fish sauce

4 creole tomatoes, chopped

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425°. Season chicken all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook, without moving, until the chicken is browned on bottom, 5 to 8 minutes.

Take the chicken out of the pan and rest it on a plate.

Add onions to the Dutch oven and cook over medium heat until translucent, 10 to 12 minutes.

Add garlic and red pepper flakes to the Dutch oven and cook over medium high heat until the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes mixture sizzles and is lightly caramelized, about 2 minutes.

Deglaze with red wine and make sure to scrape up all of the bits on the bottom of the Dutch oven. When the red wine reduces, add tomato paste and cook until rust-colored, about 5 minutes.

Add 1 tbsp of fish sauce.

Add creole tomatoes and cook down until saucy, 20 to 30 minutes.

Nestle chicken back in Dutch oven and cover. Roast in oven until dates are plump and chicken is almost cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.
Drizzle chicken with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Return to oven, and bake, uncovered, until tomatoes have become jammy, chicken is golden brown, and a thermometer inserted into thickest portion of breast registers 160° (20 to 30 minutes).

Let chicken rest in pot for 10 minutes and serve.

Featuring two of mom’s favorites, champagne and a crème de something, this super simple cocktail looks decadent and tastes delicious.

• 5 oz champagne, chilled

• .25 oz. crème de cassis

Fill a champagne flute with the crème de cassis and then add champagne. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Roger Anderson
, host of Kitchen Counter Podcast

For me, Risotto alla Milanese is a top contender for king of comfort foods. Its velvety texture is thanks to the starches in the rice which are coaxed out with regular stirring, and its golden hue comes from the saffron. It’s stunning as a stand-alone dish but becomes even more magical when paired with slow-braised beef or pork.

Prep Time: 10 minutes


Cook time: 25 minutes


Total time 35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

4 cups chicken or beef stock

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, finely diced

1 cup arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt, to taste

Directions

Heat the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and keep just below a simmer. Transfer a half cup of the stock to a small bowl and add the saffron threads; this will steep the saffron and help maximize the color and flavor.

Heat olive oil over medium heat in a 12-inch saucepan. Add the onion, stir and cook until translucent and soft, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium low.

Add the arborio rice to pan and stir to coat with olive oil. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

Add the white wine and stir. Cook until wine is reduced and absorbed, about two minutes.

Add the 1/2 cup of stock with the saffron and stir until absorbed.

Add about 1/2 cup of heated stock at a time to rice. Stir regularly until stock is mostly absorbed before adding more. Repeat this process until the rice is cooked through. You want the rice to be “al dente;” slightly firm with a little bite, but no hard, uncooked centers. There is no exact time but will probably take around 20 minutes. Trust your eyes and taste the risotto when you think it is close.

When the rice is cooked, removed from heat and stir in Parmesan cheese until incorporated, then stir in the butter until incorporated. Salt to taste if needed. Serve immediately.

From the Russian Tea Room in NYC

• 2 parts vodka

• 1 part Benedictine

• 1 dash Angostura bitters

Stir with ice, strain into a chilled glass, and garnigh with a lemon twist. 

“Fried eggplant sticks are a favorite snack found on menus of many Creole restaurants. Some restaurants do not mix cheese with the bread-crumbs, but otherwise they are almost the same everywhere. Instead of agliata, Creole restaurants typically serve them with béarnaise sauce. They are also famously served dusted with powdered sugar. I secretly believe that old-line restaurants Creolized this Italian favorite. My family uses breadcrumbs with cheese, but if you prefer you can use breadcrumbs without cheese. And if the eggplant was served as a vegetable for the meal, my family didn't use powdered sugar. But if fried eggplant sticks were appetizers at a party, there would be plenty of powdered sugar sprinkled over them. Many traditional recipes call for salting and draining the eggplant to remove excess water. Some say this extra step reduces bitterness. That may have been true decades ago, but modern eggplants have been bred to avoid bitterness, so I think this step can be omitted. Not soaking also produces fluffier and more tender eggplant sticks. When frying, you want to be sure the temperature of the oil is really hot enough; eggplant soaks up oil if the temperature is too low. Agliata was another way to use up leftover bread. This creamy condiment is sort of like Italian mayonnaise, and it's great on boiled and grilled meat, fish, and vegetables, or on just about anything that could benefit from a sauce. To Nana, oil and eggs were considered expensive, so using something like this wonderful, fresh-tasting spread could substitute for mayonnaise in many cold dishes. I used to like it on sandwiches. Agliata was my secret ingredient to making the best southern tomato sandwich, BLT, and po'boy you could eat. Duke's and Blue Plate--eat your hearts out.”—Liz Williams, Found of SoFAB and author of Nana’s Creole Italian Table

Click here to buy Liz’s latest book, Nana’s Creole Italian Table.

Eggplant Sticks

1 large firm eggplant

Peanut oil or other vegetable oil for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour 

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons water

2 cups Seasoned Breadcrumbs (recipe page 101 or purchased]

Agliata

2 cups stale bread, without crusts and cut in cubes

Water

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic

½ cup olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

3 tablespoons of another fresh green herb, such as mint, basil, or tarragon, depending on the dish accompanying the Agliata

Salt to taste

1. Place the bread in a bowl and cover it with enough water to thoroughly wet all the bread cubes. When the bread has absorbed all the water. squeeze it as dry as possible with your hands. Discard the liquid and place the squeezed bread into the bowl of a food processor.

2. Add the vinegar and garlic and process. When the mixture reaches the consistency of paste, add the olive oil in a drizzle with the processor running. When the mixture turns fluffy, add the herbs and salt and pulse to incorporate, without making the herbs disappear. Store covered in the refrigerator up to a week.

Agliata

2 cups stale bread, without crusts and cut in cubes

Water

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic

½ cup olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsleyleaves

3 tablespoons of another fresh green herb, such as mint, basil, or tarragon, depending on the dish accompanying the Agliata

Salt to taste

1. Place the bread in a bowl and cover it with enough water to thoroughly wet all the bread cubes. When the bread has absorbed all the water. squeeze it as dry as possible with your hands. Discard the liquid and place the squeezed bread into the bowl of a food processor.

2. Add the vinegar and garlic and process. When the mixture reaches the consistency of paste, add the olive oil in a drizzle with the processor running. When the mixture turns fluffy, add the herbs and salt and pulse to incorporate, without making the herbs disappear. Store covered in the refrigerator up to a week.

Granita is a fine alternative to sorbet when you do not have an ice cream maker. It is just as delicious, but with a coarser, yet fluffier texture. Instead of using fruit, you can make granita with coffee or just lemon juice, both of which are traditional. If you make this substitution, use 4 ½ cups of coffee or juice instead of fruit, and freeze and scrape as described.” —Liz Williams, Found of SoFAB and author of Nana’s Creole Italian Table

Click here to buy your own copy of Nana’s Creole Italian Table.

Ingredients: 4 cups (1½ pounds) fresh, soft fruit, ½ cup lemon juice or wine (If you use sweet wine, be careful about adding sugar), ¼ cup sugar, depending on the sweetness of the fruit and the liquid, a pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon, or your favorite spice, and balsamic vinegar or lemon zest, for serving.

Directions: Place all ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Pour the liquid into a metal pan. A 9x13-inch pan is a good size. Place the pan into the freezer. After 30 to 45 minutes scrape the freezing mixture with a fork. This creates the right texture for the granita. Place the pan back into the freezer for another 30 minutes. Repeat 2 or 3 more times. Different fruits freeze differently, so you will have to make your own decisions. The goal is to have tiny crystals piled into a serving dish. After the last fluffing and scraping with the fork, freeze 2 hours before serving. Fluff the frozen mixture before serving and divide into serving bowls or champagne coupes. Garnish each serving with a drizzle of good balsamic vinegar or lemon zest.

From Jennie Merril

TOTAL TIME: Prep/Total Time: 10 min. Use your favorite cupcake (or big cake) recipe and then get ready to frost with this delicious and easy buttercream!

MAKES: 24 servings

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup butter, softened

• 4-1/2 cups confectioners' sugar

• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 5 to 6 tablespoons 2% milk

Directions

1. In a large bowl, beat butter until creamy. Beat in the confectioners' sugar, vanilla and enough milk to achieve desired consistency. Yield: About 3 cups.

Change up the flavor! Prepare the recipe as directed making the following substitutions:

• Almond: Add 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon almond extract instead of the vanilla.

• Chocolate: Use 4 cups confectioners' sugar, 1/2 cup baking cocoa and 6-7 tablespoons milk.

• Lemon: Use 5-6 tablespoons lemon juice instead of the milk and 1 teaspoon grated peel.

• Orange: Use 5-6 tablespoons orange juice instead of the milk and add 1 teaspoon grated orange peel.

• Peanut Butter: Use 1/2 cup peanut butter instead of the butter and use 6-8 tablespoons milk.

• Peppermint: Use 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon peppermint extract instead of the vanilla.

Creole Tomato Bloody Mary

4 ounces fresh Creole tomato juice

2 ounces vodka

2 dashes Worcestershire sauce

2 dashes hot sauce

Crusting mix

¼ teaspoon celery salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon smoked paprika

Lemon wedge

Garnishes

Lemon wedge

Olives

Celery stalk

Crusting mix:

Place all of the spices into the saucer and stir.

Prepare the glass:

Rune the lemon wedge around the top of the glass leaving the oil and juice on the glass. Dip the rim of the glass into the saucer holding the crusting mix and turn until the mix adheres to the glass.

Make the drink:

In a mixing glass, add the tomato juice, the vodka, the Worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce. Stir well. Place ice cubes into the prepared glass. Add the bloody Mary from the mixing glass.

Garnish and serve.

“This is one of those lightning-quick weeknight meals that you'll return to again and again. It's just so easy and so adaptable, with a pungent gingery sauce made from miso plus pantry staples that you can apply to almost anything (see Swap It Out). Here, sweet shrimp and juicy asparagus are stir-fried in the sauce until glazed and shiny, then topped with scallions for freshness, lime juice for a jolt of acid, and sesame seeds for crunch. Serve it as is for a light meal or round it out with a little rice.” — Melissa Clark, food writer, cookbook author, and New York Times columnist

SERVES 4

Ingredients: 3 tablespoons white or yellow miso, 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger, 2 teaspoons honey, freshly ground black pepper, 1½ pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 pound asparagus, trimmed, Kosher salt, 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced, lime wedges, for serving, 2 scallions, thinly sliced, for serving, and sesame seeds, for serving.

1. In a large bowl, stir together the miso, sesame oil, ginger, honey, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and the shrimp. Let it sit while you prepare the asparagus.

2. In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle lightly with salt and generously with pepper, cover the pot, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until it is bright green but still firm, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a serving platter.

3. Add the shrimp and its marinade to the pan and cook until the shrimp is pink and tails curl in, about 5 minutes, flipping halfway through. Stir in the garlic and more pepper during the last minute, letting it become fragrant, then squeeze a lime wedge over the top. Taste and add a little salt, if needed.

4. Transfer the shrimp to the platter with the asparagus and toss well. Serve topped with scallions and sesame seeds, with more lime wedges on the side.

SWAP IT OUT

This technique can be used on so many different protein-and-vegetable combinations. Try strips of chicken breast, pork, or beef, or salmon fillets instead of shrimp. And broccoli or broccolini, sliced bell peppers, or sugar snap peas; mushrooms or chunks of cucumber can replace the asparagus.

From Kevin Augustine, Winner of the 2018 State of the Art Cocktail Celebration and Competition People's Choice Award

• 2oz verbena infused Bolden Vodka

• .75 oz lemon sherbet

• .25 oz St. Germaine

• .25 oz lemon juice

• 1tsp fresh turmeric juice

• 3 oz soda

• Garnish with a lemon wheel

"The ideal do-ahead dessert for Christmas dinner. The recipe requires three batches of custard, and we recommend that you prepare each batch separately to avoid burning or lumping."

10 servings

36 1 1/2 inch almond macaroons

1/3 to 1/2 cup amaretto liqueur

1 12-ounce jar seedless red raspberry jam

Custard (Makes 1 1/4 cups)

4 egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

10 tablespoons milk

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in

2 tablespoons milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 12-ounce pound cake, cut into

1/4-inch slices (about 16 to 17)

1/2 to 2/3 cup cream Sherry

4 10-ounce packages frozen raspberries, thawed and drained thoroughly

2 cups (1 pint) whipping cream

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla or to taste

Brush flat side of 12 to 15 macaroons with liqueur. Arrange flat sides around the sides of 12-cup glass bowl, then line bottom flat side up. Spread generously with red raspberry jam, being careful not to crush macaroons.

For custard: Whisk yolks in medium saucepan. Gradually add sugar, whisking until mixture is thick and lemon colored, about 1 to 2 minutes. Blend in milk, whipping cream and cornstarch mixture. Place over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, about 3 to 5 minutes (do not boil or mixture will separate). Remove from the heat and stir slightly cooled. Blend in vanilla and nutmeg. Transfer to bowl. Repeat twice, for a total of about 3 3/4 cups custard.

Spoon 1 1/4 cups custard over raspberry jam layer. Cover with single layer of pound cake slices. Using pastry brush, soak cake generously with 1/4 to 1/3 cup Sherry. Spread thin layer of raspberry jam over cake. Top with half of drained raspberries. Carefully spoon another 1 1/4 cups custard over berries. Repeat layering with remaining pound cake slices, Sherry, and jam. Cover with remaining berries. Carefully spread remaining custard over top.

Brush 8 or 9 macaroons with liqueur and arrange over custard flat side down. Place plastic wrap directly on surface of trifle. Refrigerate overnight. (Can be prepared up to 2 days ahead.) About 3 to 4 hours before serving, whip cream in a medium bowl until foamy. Add sugar and vanilla and continue beating until stiff but not dry. Spoon over macaroons, swirling top. Crush 10 to 12 macaroons. Sprinkle 1-inch boarder around the cream. Refrigerate until serving time.

Bon Appétit December 1981 from the John & Bonnie Boyd Hospitality & Culinary Library at SOFAB.

From Jesse Carr, Winner of the 2018 State of the Art Cocktail Celebration and Competition Judge's Choice Award

• 1.25 oz. Strawberry infused Peychauds Aperitivo 

• .75 oz. Toki 

• .75 oz. Lemon Juice 

• .5 oz. Green Tea and Rosemary Syrup

• 1 Egg White

Double Shake. Garnish with Peychauds Aperitivo Soaked Strawberry and a dusting of macha powder.

created by James Denio of Boucherie

• 2 oz Midnight Moon Strawberry Moonshine

• 1 oz Amestoi, Getariako Txakolina (semi effervescent white wine)

• 0.2 oz fresh squeezed lemon and lime juice (equal parts, cut with equal amount of water)

• watermelon (small and ripe)

Remove the seeds from the watermelon and puree until liquid. If necessary, add a small amount of fresh lemon and lime to get the watermelon to a near water-like consistency (a small amount of foam is normal). Freeze watermelon juice into an ice try.

Add ice, Midnight Moon Strawberry, lemon and lime juice to a mixing glass. Shake vigorously. Strain into rocks glass. Add white wine. Crush 1-2 watermelon ice cubes with the concave side of a heavy spoon. Add crushed watermelon granita to the drink and serve.